The hot side
Clothes still damp after a full cycle is the most common call in the book. All fixable.
A dryer that stops making heat usually has one tired component. A heating element on electric machines, an igniter or gas valve coil on gas, a thermal fuse that opened because the vent clogged. The vent is the quiet villain in half of all dryer calls, and we check it every time.
Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Electrolux, Kenmore, Bosch. Gas and electric, vented and condensing, full size and compact. The parts that fail most ride on the truck.
The drum turns, the air stays cold. The single most common dryer repair there is, and usually a one visit fix.
Long cycles, hot cabinets, damp clothes, and a real fire risk. We clear it and show you what came out.
The safety did its job, almost always because airflow died first. We replace the fuse and fix the reason it blew.
Thumping, squealing, or a drum that will not turn. Wear items, all of them replaceable in one visit.
Cycles that end early with damp loads. Sensors film over with dryer sheet residue and stop telling the truth.
Dead panels and phantom errors. We test before we replace, because boards are the expensive guess.
Nine times out of ten, airflow. A clogged vent doubles drying time long before anything actually breaks. It is also the cheapest thing on this page to fix.
Yes, gas and electric both, including the igniters, coils, and valves specific to gas machines.
Shut the machine off and call. It is usually lint meeting the element, which is exactly the scenario vent service exists to prevent.
One call and it is off your list. Open daily, 7am to 7pm.
Same day windows go to whoever calls first. The $89 diagnostic folds into your repair, so finding out costs nothing extra.